I’m a coffee loyalist and know little about green tea’s concentrated format, matcha, aside from its reputation. But I’m sensitive to caffeine, so I’m the perfect candidate for matcha. The green tea variation is known for its moderate caffeine content and smoother come down, avoiding the crash that coffee drinkers know so well.
Before tasting my way through Portland’s options, my undeveloped palette would not have been able to discern between the smoothest-tasting green tea and its poorly flavored, mass-produced cousin (looking at you, Starbucks).
Matcha is made up of ground green tea leaves, so a word on flavor: the taste might catch newcomers by surprise. Some describe it as grassy, earthy, or umami.
Speaking of corporate coffee, to level the playing field, I did make sure to sample Starbucks’ offering. Let’s just say, the price did not match the product. If you’re actually interested in tasting matcha, avoid.
What is matcha?
Matcha is the style of green tea used in traditional Japanese tea ceremony. Most green tea is cultivated in China, but most matcha tea is made in Japan. In general, the style of green is steeped leaves, whereas matcha uses ground-up leaves.
While sampling my over-priced corporate caffeine drink, I had a rude awakening. Even though it’s gaining popularity, matcha is still a speciality offering. Tasters should prepare to shell out a few dollars more than they would for an iced coffee. In addition, non-dairy drinkers may see an upcharge of at least 25 cents to 50 cents for alternative milks. Some establishments charge more for ice drinks.
At each stop along the way, I tried to keep the experiment the same: hot or iced matcha, oat milk only. Otherwise, I’d go with what – and where – the baristas suggested.
Here’s what Portland’s matcha experts recommend.
Bard Coffee – 185 Middle St., Portland
What I drank: hot matcha latte with oat milk
Bard’s matcha offering is straightforward and utilitarian yet carefully prepared.
The shop started offering matcha this spring by popular request. Cedar, their best latte artist, hooked me up with the classic: a few pumps of concentrate and steamed oat milk. Flavor and temperature was just right, showcasing the depth a seasoned-barista can bring to any kind of drink.
A note on concentrate: Bard expects heavy foot traffic, so they make their base in advance. They estimate their shop serves dozens — if not hundreds — of matcha drinks a day during the busy season. Judging by the line out the door at 11 a.m. on a Friday in early May, that estimate didn’t seem far-fetched.
If you want to see how matcha drinks are made from scratch, head to one of the shops that makes matcha a core part of their offering.
My take: Bard’s matcha is a simple and lovely way to get the job done.
Matcha Mood – 654 Congress St., Portland
What I drank: iced strawberry matcha latte with oat milk
When I started reporting this story, the first question people asked was whether I’d been to Matcha Mood. I hadn’t –– and after hearing its high praise from the folks at Bard, I headed there next.
The matcha-focused café, opened in 2023 by sisters Phuntira and Sarochinee Tiparos, bills itself as Portland’s first dedicated matcha bar and has quickly become a downtown favorite.
It’s the perfect starter shop if you’re new to matcha or you want a lot of flavors to choose from. Tiparos recommended I try strawberry iced matcha. She prepared the drink from the counter right in front of me, so I had an up-close view of the entire process. Here, each step of preparation is made to order. Carefully measured matcha is whisked with hot water, added to a base of ice and homemade strawberry syrup, then topped with milk.
This is where I learned that many drinkers prefer a sweet base to pair, or really cover up, the bitter flavor of matcha.
My take: a sugary sweet first-timer’s experience, especially if you’re in the mood for a treat.
Next, the owner of Matcha Mood recommended I head over to Onggi.
Onggi Market & Cafe – 131 Washington Ave., Portland
What I drank: matcha, iced strawberry matcha with oat milk, and hojicha with homemade sesame foam
Tucked into the back of their retail space on Washington Avenue, it is fair to say that Onggi is a hidden-gem but won’t be for much longer. The shop is a speciality market with more take-home matcha options and a variety of edible gifts from around the world. The owners recently returned from a research trip to Japan and were brimming with insights into their process.
Co-owner Marcus Im sat down with me for an educational tasting. First, I drank matcha on its own, followed by an over-ice version, and then samples with non-dairy milk and strawberry syrup.
The matcha on its own was so delicious, additives like the strawberry base were not necessary. The hojicha, a roasted version of green tea, was a welcome, dessert-style surprise. A house-made matcha pastry was also on offer, but by the time it came to sample, I was so caffeinated I had to pass it along to my colleague back at the office. He gobbled it up in one breath. I’d take that as a happy recommendation.
By the end of my visit, I was so amped up on matcha I was sure Onggi was my favorite. There were plenty of options across the speciality drink spectrum to keep me coming back for more.
My take: There’s more to experience here than just the matcha. Come for the gourmet grocery, stay for an extended tasting.
So which was my favorite? I’ll tell you after I take a nap.
Did I miss any? Tell me what you think in the comments.
Is there a food or beverage we should sample next? I want to hear from you: [email protected].