Smothered in a supersavory gravy studded with pork belly, these chewy wheat noodles are South Korea’s cultural equivalent to delivery pizza in the United States. Traditionally a takeout food, this variant of China’s zha jiang mian was created in Incheon, South Korea, by Chinese migrant workers around the turn of the 20th century. Over the years, the dish has become sweeter and richer with pork to match Korean palates. A flavorful broth results in the most flavorful jjajang sauce, which is simmered slowly here to develop the deep comfort of onion and cabbage that scaffolds umami sweetness over the fragrant pork belly. Traditionally, powdered starch thickens the sauce, but here, grated potato achieves the same effect with less gloopiness.
Jjajangmyeon (Black Bean Noodles)
Ingredients:
• 1 tablespoon canola or grapeseed oil, plus more if needed
• 8 ounces boneless, skinless pork belly, sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick pieces
• Salt
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• 1 medium white onion, coarsely chopped
• 1/2 small green cabbage, cored and coarsel chopped
• 2 1/2 tablespoons chunjang, sometimes labeled as jjajang (fermented black bean paste; see Tips)
• 4 cups chicken broth
• 2 tablespoons maple syrup
• 1 small russet potato
• 1 1/2 pounds fresh wheat noodles for jjajangmyeon (see Tips)
• 1 small cucumber, cut into thin matchsticks
Directions:
Heat a large Dutch oven or large, deep skillet over medium. Add the oil and pork belly, season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned and some fat has rendered, about 10 minutes.
Raise the heat to high. Add the onion and cabbage and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and the bottom of the pot starts to get brown and sticky, 3 to 5 minutes. Add more oil if the bottom is dry.
Add the chunjang and cook, stirring constantly, until the pork is slicked with the paste, 30 seconds to 1 minute.
Stir in the chicken broth and maple syrup, scraping the bottom of the pot to release any caramelized brown bits. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and simmer until the pork is tender, about 20 minutes.
Peel and grate the potato, then stir it into the sauce and raise the heat to high to bring to a boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thick like gravy, 10 to 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook the noodles according to package instructions, then transfer with tongs to a colander or sieve in the sink. Rinse under cold water until no longer sticky, then dunk back into the hot water to reheat the noodles. Drain well, then distribute the noodles among bowls.
Generously ladle the jjajang sauce over the noodles, top with the cucumbers and eat immediately.
Tips:
Chunjang, the word for the fermented black soybean paste that forms the base of jjajang sauce, isn’t always listed on the label for this product. What you’re looking for is a jet-black paste, often labeled “black bean paste,” with ingredients including black soybeans, salt, wheat flour and caramel.
Jjajangmyeon-specific fresh wheat noodles can be found in the refrigerated and frozen sections of Korean grocery stores and most Asian markets. Delightfully chewy and elastic, they’re worth seeking out. They’re thicker, chewier and more substantial than Italian pasta, but a pound of linguine, thick spaghetti or bucatini can be substituted.
Total time: 1 hour, serves 4.
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